Textile fabric appearance quality identification method
This article provides a detailed introduction to the knowledge of identifying the appearance quality of fabrics from several aspects such as front and back identification, inverted wool identification, defect identification, weft and skew identification and correction.
1. Front and back identification
Among various types of fabrics, it is difficult to distinguish the front and back of some fabrics. If you are not careful during the sewing process of work clothes, it is easy to make mistakes, resulting in errors, such as uneven color and luster, unequal patterns, and in serious cases, obvious defects. Color differences, confusing patterns, and fabric inversions affect the appearance of garments. In addition to the sensory methods of sight and touch, identifying the quality of fabrics can also be based on the fabric’s organizational structure characteristics, color characteristics, special appearance effects after finishing, and the fabric’s trademark stickers and seals.
1. Identification based on the organizational structure of the fabric
(l) Plain weave fabrics: The front and back sides of plain weave fabrics are difficult to identify, so there is actually no difference between the front and back sides (except for printed fabrics). Generally, the front side of plain weave fabrics is relatively flat and clean, and the color is uniform and bright.
(2) Twill fabric: Twill weave is divided into two types: single-sided twill and double-sided twill. The single-sided twill pattern is clear and obvious on the front, but blurry on the back. In addition, in terms of the inclination of the grain, the front grain of a single yarn fabric slopes from the upper left to the lower right, and the grain of a half-line fabric or a full-line fabric slopes from the lower left to the upper right. The front and back grains of a double-sided twill are basically the same, but the twill To the opposite.
(3) Satin fabric: Because more of the warp or weft yarns on the front of the satin fabric emerge from the cloth surface, the cloth surface is flat, tight, and full of luster. The texture on the reverse side looks like plain or twill, and the finish is darker.
In addition, warp twill and warp satin have more warp floating points on the front, and weft twill and weft satin have more weft floating points on the front.
2. Identification based on fabric pattern and color
The patterns and patterns on the front of various fabrics are relatively clear and clean, the shapes and line contours of the patterns are relatively fine and obvious, with clear layers, and the colors are bright, vivid and full; the reverse side is lighter in color than the front, the lines and outlines are blurry, and the patterns lack layers and perfection. Also darker.
3. Based on fabric tissue changes and pattern identification
The texture patterns of jacquard, lattice and striped fabrics vary widely. On the front side of the texture, there are generally fewer floating yarns, and the stripes, plaids and proposed patterns are more obvious than on the reverse side, and the lines are clear, the outline is prominent, the color is uniform, and the color is bright and soft; on the reverse side, the pattern is relatively vague, the outline is unclear, and the color is dark. Shen. There are also some jacquard fabrics with unique and unique patterns on the reverse side, and the colors are harmonious and quiet, so the reverse side is used as the main material when making clothes. As long as the yarn structure of the fabric is reasonable, the floating length is uniform, and the fastness is not affected, the reverse side can also be used as the front side.
4. Identification based on fabric edge
Generally, the front side of the fabric is flatter and stiffer than the back side, and the back side is curled inwards. The fabric woven by shuttleless looms has a relatively flat edge on the front, and it is easy to find the clumps of weft yarns on the back edge. Some high-end fabrics. Such as woolen fabrics. There are characters or other characters woven on the edge of the fabric. The characters or characters on the front are clearer, more obvious, and more complete; while the characters or characters on the back are blurry and the fonts are written backwards.
5. Identification based on the appearance effect of the fabric after extraordinary finishing
(1) Fleece fabric: The front side of the fabric is densely packed with plush. The reverse side is a nap-free structure. The ones with obvious ground textures include plush, velvet, velveteen, corduroy, etc. Some fabrics have dense velvet, and even the texture of the ground tissue is difficult to see.
(2) Burnt-out fabric: The pattern made by chemical treatment has a clear front outline, layers, and bright color. If it is a suede burnt-out fabric, the suede surface will be full and flat, such as burnt-out silk, georgette, etc.
6. Identification based on trademarks and seals
When the entire piece of fabric is inspected before leaving the factory, the product trademark paper or instructions are generally affixed to the reverse side of the fabric; the factory date and inspection seal stamped on both ends of each piece and section are the reverse side of the fabric. Unlike domestic products, export products have their trademarks and seals stamped on the front.
2. Identification of reversed hair
Some workwear fabrics, such as corduroy, velveteen, velvet, plush and various woolen fabrics, etc., have reverse suede surfaces. There are obvious differences in the hair on the front and back of these fabrics. Generally, if you touch it with your hands, what is supported by the hair head is the inverted hair. Those with submissive hair are Shunmao. Additionally, there is a noticeable difference in color. When using this kind of fabric to make work clothes, it is obvious to distinguish the front and back sides of the suede. For example, the suede side of corduroy is the front side, and the direction of the pile of the fabric can be correctly judged and cut with down or smooth hair. In addition, when cutting from fabrics with velvet, it is necessary to adopt a single-piece cutting method so that the velvet of the main and secondary parts are consistent, otherwise the finished garment effect will be inconsistent. Some fabrics have a flashing effect, and you must pay attention to the reverse direction, otherwise the color will be inconsistent after flashing, affecting the effect. For some asymmetrical plaid fabrics, you should also pay attention to the inversion. The processing method is the same as the treatment of woolen materials and corduroy with inversion.
3. Defect identification
The presence or absence of defects is an important criterion for testing fabric quality. The main causes of defects are as follows:
1. Defects caused by poor fiber quality are called yarn defects;
2.Defects caused by fabric fabrication are called weaving defects;
3. Defects caused during printing, dyeing, finishing and other processes are called printing defects.
Serious defects should be cut off. For relatively minor defects in woolen and silk fabrics, a small string should be tied to the edge of the fabric outside the defect to mark it, which is commonly known as a “pigtail”. For other fabrics, such as rayon and polyester-cotton fabrics, “pigtails” are not tied, but the grade of the fabric is evaluated based on the specific situation (severity of defects).
Slight defects will directly affect the appearance, and serious defects will damage the local strength and wear resistance. Therefore, defects on the fabric should be avoided as much as possible when cutting. If it cannot be avoided, the defects can be placed in parts of the work clothes that are not subject to frequent wear, so as not to affect the appearance and durability of the clothes.
1. Defects in the original yarn.
Defects on the fabric surface caused by yarn defects.
2. Defects in original color cloth.
3. Defects in yarn-dyed fabrics.
4. Defects in printing and dyeing cloth.
4. Identification and correction of weft and skew
During the weaving and finishing process of various types of yarn-dyed fabrics, due to the influence of mechanical tension, the weft yarn irregularity occurs in the fabric, which is collectively referred to as “weft skew”. Weft skew includes check skew, pattern skew and weft skew, etc. Check skew is the most common, especially in all kinds of plaid velvet. The weft bias of yarn-dyed fabrics has the following three forms:
1. One side weft slant: It shows that the width of the fabric is in the shape of a slant with one end high and the other low.
2. Central arcuate weft: represents the arc-shaped recess in the middle of the fabric.
3. Side arcuate weft: represents the arc-shaped indentation on one side (left or right) of the fabric.
Regardless of the weft and skew pattern, if it is not corrected in advance, the appearance and internal quality of the work clothes will be damaged after being cut into work clothes. For example, serious weft skew on plaid fabrics or horizontal striped fabrics will cause the left and right or front and rear parts of the work clothes to be out of alignment, seriously affecting the appearance quality of the work clothes. If the weft skew is not corrected, it will cause the weft threads of the garment to be uneven, causing the garment to become distorted and uneven, causing serious inherent quality problems in the finished workwear.
There are two methods of correcting weft skew:
1. Manual correction: Spray water on the raw material to moisten it, then pull two people against each other in the weft and diagonal direction. Although this method is effective, it is labor-intensive and slow.
2. Machine correction: Most skew correction machines are designed and manufactured by workwear factories. The straightening machine consists of five major components: bracket, transmission, steam spray device, adjusting weft pulling device and ironing roller. It is characterized by labor-saving and fast work efficiency. Some clothing materials with serious weft skew require repeated corrections to achieve results.
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