On March 8, Liang Zi, a female designer in Paris, France, did not bother to celebrate the holiday for herself. She was busy running around non-stop, preparing for a special Xiangyunsha-themed fashion show to showcase the “soft gold” produced in Shunde. Bring into the French wardrobe.
Not long ago, good news came from Shunde Lunjiao, which is more than 10,000 kilometers away – approved by the State Intellectual Property Office, the “Yunsha” registered by the Shunde District Lunjiao Xiangyunsha Association The collective trademark “Hometown” was approved and registered successfully. This is the fifth national-level “gold-lettered signboard” approved in this industry.
This good news not only gives Liang Zi and other designers more confidence to promote Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn in the global fashion capital, it is like a shot in the arm for the Shunde Xiangyun yarn industry, further condensing the There is a consensus on the “two ends” of the smile curve of Xiangyun yarn fabric industry to develop together and become stronger and bigger.
Planning first
“Yunsha Hometown” is listed as an urban strategy
The divine color is dyed with ethics and education, and the heavenly craftsmanship is fragrant.
“Xiangyun yarn”, also known as yam yarn, angustifolia silk, cloud yarn, etc., is a famous dyeing fabric unique to southern my country. It is also one of the few textiles in the world that is dyed with pure natural dyes. Silk fabric. Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing techniques and clusters have emerged since the middle of the Qing Dynasty, and currently mainly exist in Lunjiao, Shunde.
The dyeing and finishing techniques of Xiangyun yarn were included in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage lists in 2008. Currently, there are 9 representative inheritors of the project, including Liang Zhu and Huang Tiansheng.
Since the dyeing and finishing techniques of Xiangyun yarn have been listed as intangible cultural heritage, the governments of Shunde District and Lunjiao Street have made every effort to promote Xiangyun yarn based on its characteristics of high integration with modern times and great potential for industrialization. The “four combinations” of intangible cultural heritage of yarn dyeing and finishing techniques with modern life, modern technology, modern products and modern aesthetics allow traditional crafts to shine in the new era and contribute to the high-quality development of the city.
As the source of production, Lunjiao deeply understands the uniqueness and importance of protecting, inheriting and developing the intangible cultural heritage of Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing techniques, and has made many efforts for it. As early as 2020, Lunjiao clearly proposed the “Yunsha Hometown” urban strategy, included it in the key street strategies for promotion, and formulated a “protective development” strategy integrating “technology, culture, and finance”.
In terms of support policies, Lunjiao has successively issued the “Three-year Action Plan for the High-Quality Development of Lunjiao Xiangyun Sha Industry (2020-2022)” and the “Support for the Development of Lunjiao Street Xiangyun Sha Cultural and Creative Industry” Measures” to improve the intangible cultural heritage inheritance system, create an intangible cultural heritage development system, build a comprehensive intangible cultural heritage marketing and promotion system, and provide financial support of more than 4 million yuan per year to comprehensively promote the protection of Xiangyunsha intangible cultural heritage and the Xiangyunsha cultural industry develop.
Innovation path
Building a comprehensive intellectual property protection pattern for Xiangyunsha
Driven by policies, a group of designers have implemented ethics education and focused on Xiangyunsha Innovation and entrepreneurship.
Ling Honglian is one of the top ten fashion designers in Guangdong Province, a lecturer in clothing at Guangdong University of Technology, and the founder of Yunxi Shahua Studio. Under the incubation and cultivation of Lunjiao State-owned Assets, the company she founded, Foshan Times Hua Yarn Co., Ltd.’s business is gradually getting back on track.
“Last year was the second year of the company’s business.” Ling Honglian said that due to the recovery of the Xiangyun yarn market, she not only took root in Shunde, but also opened a direct-operated store in Guangzhou, and also cooperated with Cooperate with co-branded brands. But Ling Honglian is also encountering the troubles of growing up. She hopes to introduce more fashion designer talents to Shunde to further expand the scale of the enterprise.
Shuai Guiying is another top ten fashion designer in Guangdong Province who is deeply involved in the Xiangyun yarn industry. In August last year, she registered and established Shunde District Zhongxun Cultural Development Co., Ltd. in Lunjiao, Shunde, and founded “Women’s Impression”, a Xiangyun gauze brand rich in female power.
In November 2021, at the 2021 Bay Area (Guangdong) Fashion Culture Week-Autumn, Shuai Guiying led the team to put the sunburn scene on the stage, with the help of the Cantonese opera “Mu Guiying Takes the Command”, and released it in one go Purchased more than 50 sets of Xiangyunsha clothing from the “Women’s Impression” series. After an instant success, Shuai Guiying was also anxious: “I have been engaged in the clothing design industry for 30 years. I have now opened up the links of clothing research and development, design and production, live broadcast sales, etc., but I am constrained by the front-end fabric production.”
Sanzhengjiu Boiled for eighteen years and dried in the sun, Xiangyun yarn is the “soft gold” of the textile industry.
“Previously, the Xiangyun yarn industry in Shunde did not have a collective trademark. Although companies have registered their own trademarks, most of them operate independently. There is still room for the industry to enhance brand appeal.” Lun Lu Tianzhuo, deputy director of the Institute of Market Supervision and Administration, believes.
In order to expand the regional influence of the Lunjiao Xiangyun Yarn Industry and promote the group development of industry enterprises, the Lunjiao Street Office and the Publicity, Culture, Sports and Tourism Office actively intervened to guide the Lunjiao Xiangyun Yarn Association in August 2020. The registration and application process for the collective trademark “Yunsha Hometown” began in May. During this period, in order to successfully apply for a collective trademark, the Lunjiao Xiangyun Sha Association fully listened to the professional opinions of the industry and repeatedly discussed with people from all walks of life to form effective trademark management rules.
After some hard work, in January this year, the State Intellectual Property Office issued the registration certificate for the collective trademark No. 54731730 “Yunsha Hometown” to the Lunjiao Xiangyunsha Association. This is the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list announced by the State Council in 2008 after “Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing techniques”. In June 2009, Liangzhu was named a national intangible cultural heritage item by the Ministry of Culture. Xiangyun yarn dyeing Representative inheritor of whole body skills, approved by the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine in 2011 Announcement No. 100″Xiangyunsha” is a geographical indication protected product. After the “Lunjiao Xiangyunsha” geographical indication certification trademark was approved by the State Intellectual Property Office in 2018, the Lunjiao Xiangyunsha industry obtained the fifth national gold-lettered signboard.
Chen Xiaoliang, executive vice president of Lunjiao Xiangyun Sha Association, believes that the “collective trademark” has been approved, and Lunjiao Xiangyun Sha’s strategic layout of protecting traditional excellent culture with modern intellectual property protection methods has basically been completed. The global intellectual property protection pattern has been formed.
Brand leadership
Strongly promote the Xiangyun yarn industry to strengthen and repair the chain
At present, the Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn association has 50 corporate members, covering fabric trading, Sun-drying shops, designer studios, clothing manufacturing and sales, legal services, investment companies, packaging consumables and other enterprises. How to make better use of collective trademarks to help promote regional industries as a whole and “gather together” to participate in market competition, and work on both ends of the smile curve, has attracted the attention of the industry.
Liang Zhu, the national intangible inheritor of Xiangyun yarn, believes that the Xiangyun yarn industry has been booming in recent years, and fake Xiangyun yarn from other regions have appeared on the market. The fabrics from the production areas have had an impact, and the policy promotion and implementation of “geographical indications + collective trademarks” still needs to be strengthened.
“We take root in Shunde to build a clothing brand, hoping to win the cooperation of inheritors’ craftsmanship at the source of production and carry out fabric research and development innovation.” Ling Honglian believes that the “Yunsha Hometown” collective trademark will be conducive to linking the resources of the production area. By giving full play to the leading role of brand standards at the source of origin, the reputation and cost-effectiveness of clothing brands can be enhanced.
The Lunjiao 456 Silkworm Breeding Farm Cultural and Creative Park is an industrial park carefully built by the Provincial Silk Textile Group in Shunde. As an important part of the fragrant yarn industry ecosystem, the park is advancing on two tracks to promote Lunjiao fragrant yarn. The construction of Yunsha Exhibition and Trading Center and Xiangyunsha Testing and Certification Center will strengthen and supplement the Xiangyunsha industry chain. Tang Zheng, deputy general manager of the park, said that the Xiangyun yarn futures trading platform created by the park has been directly connected to the China Cocoon Silk Trading Market. In the future, an industry big data platform will be established to help Lunjiao create Xiangyun yarn fabric research and development innovation, trading, and designers. A closed-loop industry chain for brand apparel release and sales.
“Only when intangible cultural heritage is integrated into modern life can it radiate new vitality.” As a leading company in the Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn industry chain, Huang Zhihua, chairman of Shunde Tianyi Shunyuan Ecological Culture Investment Co., Ltd., revealed that at present, The company has opened an eco-fashion experience space for Tianyi Xiangyun Silk in Paris. Next, it will continue to share the concept and value of sustainable development of Shunde Xiangyun Sha with the world through inheritance, research and development, and design activation, and enhance the Lunjiao Xiangyun Sha. The influence of industry and the beauty-seeking economy in the global fashion industry.
-Dialogue
Chen Xiaoliang, Executive Vice President of Lunjiao Xiangyun Sha Association: Create a closed-loop value chain and empower high-quality development of the industry
Nanfang Daily: For To successfully apply for a collective trademark, what efforts did the association make and what difficulties did it overcome?
Chen Xiaoliang: Applying for registration of the “Yunsha Hometown” collective trademark is a major deployment of the Lunjiao Xiangyunsha industry to tap the economic value of the Xiangyunsha industry, and is of extremely great significance. Starting in 2020, the association will launch the registration of collective trademarks, hire a professional team, extensively solicit industry opinions, and formulate management rules for the use of collective trademarks.
There are several important nodes for the efforts of the government and associations: On August 27, 2019, the Lunjiao Street Office issued the “Interim Measures for Supporting the Development of the Xiangyunsha Cultural and Creative Industry in Lunjiao Street”; 2020 On April 27, 2021, the “Three-Year Action Plan for the High-Quality Development of the Lunjiao Xiangyun Yarn Industry (2020-2022)” was issued; on June 24, 2021, the State Intellectual Property Office issued a review of a textile industry association’s review of the “Lunjiao Xiangyun Yarn Industry” The request for invalidation of the “Yunsha” geographical indication certification mark was rejected and the geographical indication certification was maintained.
Nanfang Daily: How will the association use the collective trademark as a golden sign to drive high-quality development of the Xiangyun yarn industry?
Chen Xiaoliang: We hope to promote the large-scale and high-quality development of Xiangyun yarn industry through the empowerment of national intangible cultural heritage, geographical indications, certification marks, and collective marks.
We will highlight the creation of the Xiangyun yarn industry value chain, and transmit the cultural value in the intangible cultural heritage stage and the legal value in the trademark stage to the economic value in the industrial stage in a closed loop. Among them, intangible cultural heritage highlights the protection of traditional skills, geographical indications emphasizes humanistic and geographical environmental factors, geographical indication certification trademarks highlight product quality assurance, and collective trademarks focus on gathering industry synergy to form industrial scale.
Collective trademarks use rules to ensure that the implementation of the industry will be well-founded and will ensure standardized development and healthy competition in the industry after implementation. It stipulates the rights enjoyed by members of the Lunjiao Xiangyunsha Association, such as using the collective trademark on their products or packaging, using the “Yunsha Hometown” collective trademark for product advertising, and giving priority to participate in technical training and trade negotiations sponsored or co-organized by the association. , information exchange activities, etc., supervise the use of collective trademark management fees, and apply for support funds. At the same time, corresponding obligations have been planned, such as maintaining the quality, quality and reputation of the “Yunsha Hometown” collective trademark products, ensuring stable product quality, and accepting the association’s irregular testing of product quality and supervision of trademark use, etc.
It should also be noted that with Xiangyun yarn industry planning as the core, including river mud protection, intellectual property traceability protection, support policies and a series of industrial supporting facilities, will be the key “catalyst” for the large-scale development of the industry “. The registration of the collective trademark “Yunsha Hometown” is a new starting point, and the development of Xiangyunsha industry is still on the way.
The key “catalyst” for development. The registration of the collective trademark “Yunsha Hometown” is a new starting point, and the development of Xiangyunsha industry is still on the way.
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