Jacquard
It is a concave and convex pattern composed of interlaced warp and weft threads on textile fabrics.
As early as the ancient Silk Road, Chinese silk was famous around the world for its jacquard weaving method. The jacquard crafting method originated from the original waist machine. Jacquard patterns have been found in fabrics unearthed from the Shang Dynasty. The jacquard texture patterns of this period were mostly linear rhombus patterns, back patterns, “cup patterns” and The linear shapes of these patterns are variations on geometric shapes.
In the Qin and Han Dynasties, silk jacquard fabric patterns were based on the pre-Qin geometric patterns, and added small flower patterns such as birds, animals, clouds and a small amount of plants. By the Sui and Tang dynasties, full-bodied shapes such as lotuses, curly grass, and sketched flowers, and round large plant patterns appeared on silk jacquard fabrics. The plant patterns appeared rich and rich in style. By the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, silk jacquard fabric patterns It is natural, smooth, delicate and delicate.
△Jacquard machine, illustration from “Tiangong Kaiwu” (Ming Dynasty)
Yingxing of the Ming and Song Dynasties’ “Tiangong Kaiwu·Jingshu”: “Weaving The flower text must be made of dried silk from Jia, Hu outlet and water outlet, so that you can pick it up and do not worry about cutting it off. If you are in other provinces, it is just a jacquard and a scribble.”
In modern times, with the development of modern weaving technology, large-scale electronic jacquard machines have appeared. Jacquard weaving technology has developed rapidly, jacquard patterns have also shown rich and colorful expressions, and the artistic expression of jacquard weaving has also been unprecedentedly improved. improvement and development.
Large jacquard and small jacquard
Large jacquard
Large Jacquard is a large pattern tissue woven with a jacquard machine. The number of warp threads in the complete jacquard structure can reach thousands. Jacquard is mostly based on one kind of tissue, and uses another kind of tissue to show the pattern, such as plain weave and satin weave. Sometimes warp and weft yarns of different colors can be used to make the fabric show large colorful patterns. Different fiber types, yarn counts and different warp and weft densities can also be used to make various styles of jacquard fabrics. Jacquard weave is also widely used in bedding, curtains, blankets and other textiles.
△Jacquard fabric
The jacquard loom uses pattern needles to control the up and down movement of the warp filaments. Generally, the practical pattern needles of No. 1400 jacquard machine are 1480 needles, which means that there are 1480 warp movement patterns that can be controlled, which greatly increases the area of the pattern.
Dobby Jacquard
Dobby Jacquard uses two A tissue that changes in one or more types of tissue to form a pattern is called dobby. Dobby jacquard is generally made of plain weave. Dobby jacquard fabrics are often used in high-end bedding, curtains, etc. because their patterns are finer and more delicate than large jacquard fabrics.
△Dobby loom
Dobby loom is used The dobby controls the lifting and lowering of the heald frame. The movement of the warp wires is determined by the lifting and lowering of the heald frame by the blades in the dobby. A general dobby can only control 16 heald frames, which means there are only 16 types of warp wire movement. Patterns can be controlled. The patterns woven are relatively small. If you want to weave larger patterns, you can only achieve it by enlarging the cycle of drawing in and lifting out the healds. The dobby of the imported jacquard loom can control up to 24 heald frames. But this is rare, the most common ones are 16 and 20 pieces.
Summary
The difference
The main difference in the size of the jacquard pattern cycle is the difference between the looms. Small jacquard fabrics can generally be produced by dobby looms, while large jacquard fabrics must be produced on large looms. Produced on jacquard looms.
Jacquard fabric is a tissue with hundreds of circulating warp threads and needs to be woven with a jacquard machine. Dobby jacquard is a cotton fabric with a small pattern woven by a dobby loom, or is called a dobby jacquard fabric.
Identification method
1. Type of opening mechanism:
Electronic dobby: When weaving small jacquard fabrics, the electromagnetic iron magnet is generally powered by receiving instructions from the industrial computer to control the lifting and lowering of the brown frame.
Electronic jacquard faucet: Weaving jacquard fabrics, the electronic needle receives instructions from the industrial computer to control the lifting and lowering of each thread. Generally, the heald frame of a dobby loom has 16 to 20 pieces, and the most common jacquard faucet has 2640 stitches.
2. Threading and fishing��：
Multi-arm heddle drawing, the principle of heddling drawing is mentioned in the fabric structure: the warp yarns with the same floating and sinking interweaving rules are generally threaded into the same heddle sheet, or they can also be threaded into Warp yarns with different interweaving patterns in different heddle sheets must be separated into different heddle sheets. The drawing-in diagram draws at least one drawing-in cycle.
Electronic jacquard fishing is done from left to right. The above is the basic situation of the large and small jacquard production process to help understand.
How to identify jacquard fabrics:
1. Determine the warp and weft direction of the fabric;
2. Find out A complete weft cycle;
3. Find out how many warp threads with different movements there are in a complete cycle;
4. Generally speaking, if the number of different movement warp threads is less than 20, it is small jacquard, and if it is more than 20, it is large jacquard. It is only a preliminary judgment.
In the actual process, it needs to be analyzed based on the company’s equipment configuration. For example, a company’s dobby weaving is equipped with up to 16 heald frames, so the number of warp yarns for different movements The fabric must be woven with a jacquard machine, and the density of each heald must also be taken into consideration, because too high a density of each heald will lead to problems such as poor workmanship. For example, it is initially judged that 20 warp yarns with different movements are used, and the company is equipped with a dobby loom with 20 heddles. However, the warp density of the fabric is too large, resulting in too high a density of each heddle. At this time, we should consider using a large jacquard loom for weaving. . In actual work, whether you are doing design or sales, you can analyze and judge based on your actual situation.
The difference between jacquard and other patterned fabrics
1 Printed fabric
Jacquard refers to a textile in which the yarns are interlaced according to different movement rules during the fabrication process to form patterns. The yarns are interlaced and flowered. The changes in the yarn color and the combination of different yarn movement rules produce different patterns. The color blocks and the displayed patterns are mixed colors, three-dimensional and textured.
Printed fabric is a fabric with printed patterns applied with pigments or dyes, and is flat.
2 Embroidered fabrics
Embroidered fabrics are extremely artistic Patterned fabrics have various stitching methods, no directionality, and free use of colors, while jacquard fabrics rely on warp and weft yarns to develop color, and the yarns are arranged regularly, relying on different tissues to produce limited color blocks, and the number of colors is limited.
3 Burnout fabric
Burnout fabric is polyester The cotton fibers in cotton core-spun yarn or polyester-cotton blended fabrics are rotten with physalis to reveal transparent patterned textiles. You can also use physalis to rotten the rayon on fabrics made of silk and rayon to reveal thin Transparent pattern.
