Many people ask what kind of fabric is a good fabric? In fact, there are many types of fabrics and different textile techniques. It is difficult to distinguish the quality from the bad in detail, so let me tell you about the general judgment of quality.
Chapter 1 Basic knowledge of fabrics
1. Fabrics are mainly divided into: non-textile fabrics and textile fabrics. From another dimension, it is divided into natural fabrics and non-natural fabrics.
Looking from a finer dimension
Natural
a. Plant fibers, such as cotton, hemp, and fruit fibers
b. Animal fibers, such as wool, rabbit hair, and silk
c. Mineral fibers, such as asbestos
Non-natural
a. Regenerated fibers, such as viscose, acetate, Tencel, modal, lyocell, bamboo fiber, etc.
b. Synthetic fibers, such as nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex, Lycra, etc.
c. Inorganic fibers, such as glass fiber, metal fiber, etc.
(For the convenience of understanding, the above product names and category names are mixed)
2. From textile technology From the top:
Woven: The fabric structure is stable and has no elasticity (except for fabrics with elastic fibers). The cloth surface is flat, solid and durable, and the appearance is crisp and loose. , to put it simply, it is not close to the body. If it is damaged and scratched, it will not be visible
Knitted: The fabric is elastic, the cloth surface feels soft, comfortable, fit, and breathable , easy to loosen. To put it simply, it means getting bigger and bigger. There was a hole in it.
My personal opinion is: (does not distinguish between printing and dyeing processes)
Low-grade fabric: ordinary chemical fiber
Ordinary fabrics: general cotton, linen.
Mid-level fabrics: Lycra, Tencel and other mid-level chemical fiber fabrics, natural and blended fabrics, tussah silk, long-staple cotton, ordinary leather, etc.
High-end fabrics: wool, mulberry silk, (fabric), calfskin, lambskin and other high-quality leather, fox fur and other ordinary fur
Top fabrics: sheep (camel hair), heavy mulberry silk fabrics, precious leather, mink and other high-end furs
2. Personal summary of the shortcomings of some ordinary fabrics :
Cotton: below ordinary long-staple cotton, it will harden after repeated washing
Colored cotton : Only available in brown and green colors
Hemp: Not anti-wrinkle, easy to fade, easy to shrink mold
Ordinary Silk: easy to shrink, not acid-resistant, and resistant to sunlight
Wool (velvet: prone to insects.
Rayon: easy to stick to the body
Modal: easy to pill and wrinkle
Tencel: hot and humid The environment becomes hard
Ice silk: easy to shed and harden
Bamboo fiber: easy to break
3. From a consumer and commercial perspective, the difference between good fabrics and ordinary fabrics is not so obvious. Clothes made of ordinary fabrics may even be more expensive than those made of good fabrics. But from the perspective of the traditional luxury goods industry, any non-natural fabrics are not acceptable. Unless they are 100% natural fiber fabrics, any fabric containing chemical fibers is not very good. This is just like in the traditional jewelry industry. Come on, all semi-precious stones (including tourmaline and aquamarine) are not on the table because they are “semi-precious stones”.
So why do pure cotton fabrics add 2% of other chemical fibers? It is to make up for some shortcomings of pure cotton fabrics. There are advantages and disadvantages to this. The advantage is that you can enjoy it at a low price, or you can achieve almost 80% of high-quality fabrics.
experience, or it solves some minor problems in daily wear. The downside is that once you start to accept the taste, it gradually gets bad. For example, everyone knows that 24K gold retains its value, but it is soft. If it is replaced by 18K gold, which is hard, everyone will be happy, but it will not be valuable anymore. An old man who really wears gold jewelry can only afford 999 gold.
The future is indeed a world of blended fabrics, but this only refers to business, not taste. Luxury goods are originally things that can only be used by a few people. Once they become popular, their gold content will gradually decrease, such as LV. The United States is an example of degenerate fashion taste. Many Americans take it for granted that jeans and a pullover are formal enough because JOBS wore it that way. But they don’t know that when JOBS went to the White House, he still wore a suit and tie from a big-name brand. He shows you. His public image is definitely not his complete image. ��, those who wear heavy makeup usually need to cover something.
C. Don’t just look at the count. The fabrics from large manufacturers do a good job in post-processing. The texture of 100-count fabrics can instantly beat the 130-count fabrics from small manufacturers.
D. Don’t just think that ring velvet is good. There is a difference between “dense and thin” and “sparse and thin”. Real ring velvet Must be more than 200. As shown in the picture below, the top is good and the bottom is bad. Although the upper part is very rustic and the lower part looks high-end, the color and light transmission betray its CHEAP essence.
E. Look at the logo on the woolen sweater. The ones marked sf24/s 26s/2 and 28s/2 are woolen and higher. It is called worsted spinning, such as 48s/2 60/s 120/s
F. The number of needles in cashmere sweaters is different from that of fabrics. To put it simply, A cashmere sweater with 7 and 9 needles is thick. In winter in Beijing, a coat with 7 and 9 needles can be added to a cashmere sweater with 7 and 9 needles. 12 to 16 needles are not thick enough and you have to wear down. 18 needles are for summer wear.
G.
The benefits of blending silk and cashmere are not as great as advertised. To put it simply, I don’t buy this kind of domestic blended fabric, because although it feels better, it is not warm. One is long velvet and the other is short velvet. The technology is poor
Just don’t mix together. Moreover, silk is inherently fine (12 microns). If domestic fabrics are labeled as 120-count silk and wool blends, the quality is actually much worse than pure 120-count wool. Foreign fabrics are more conscientious and will have clear markings
It is 120S mixed with silk, which means that the wool I originally used was 120 thread count.
H. Cashmere must be allowed to rest. This is true for all good fabrics, including lambskin. Otherwise, the structure will become bigger and bigger and it will easily lose its shape. To put it simply, it is After wearing a cashmere sweater for a day, you should lay it flat and let it rest for a day, allowing the fibers stretched by gravity to slowly bounce back.
Conscience gift: How to distinguish real and fake woolen sweaters when you have little experience, take X Doss’s as an example. Look at the tag, it’s fake and it’s real.
The real tag color column will not have the word “color”, that is, it will only say dark gray, not dark gray.
The genuine tag inspection mark must be affixed rather than printed.
The genuine craftsmanship column must be marked with craftsmanship, such as Worsted, jacquard or something else, it won’t just be marked with a half turtleneck zipper.
The contract number and process number of the really different styles of sweaters are definitely They are different. The fake one is a universal hangtag, and there are also implementation standards. It is too complicated, so I won’t go into it.
3. Suit fabric:
In the world of suit fabrics, British ones are always better than Italian ones, nothing like the United States and other countries.
British fabrics: thicker, suitable for autumn and winter wear
NO.1 Scabal: the king of fabrics, expensive, a suit can be made in China but still affordable A good custom shop costs RMB 30,000 to RMB 40,000.
NO.2 Dormeuil: French, very similar to British products, cost-effective, and good post-production finishing Well, 120 pieces can give the feeling of 140 pieces, but it’s a pity that many custom shops no longer stock them.
NO.3Holland & Sherry: Complete product line, but unique features Not outstanding, because most of them are made in Italy, that is, Carlo Barbera
Italian fabric: lighter and thinner, suitable for spring and summer
NO.1 Ermenegildo Zegna Trofeo and 13Milmil13 series are good
NO.2 Loro piana: This top cashmere company does not brag. Dazzling, much more low-key.
NO.3 Cerruti 1881, VBC is the most suitable for daily suits.
There is also a special Carlo Barbera, also mentioned above.
