In the Hong’an Dabu traditional textile skills intangible cultural heritage workshop on Changsheng Street, Qiliping Town, Hong’an County, 60-year-old Huang Zhenlan sat in front of an old-fashioned wooden loom, her feet skillfully stepped on the pedals, and the shuttle moved The yarns shuttled back and forth, and a piece of red Andan cloth appeared in front of the reporter.
“Those who can weave quickly can weave more than 10 meters in one day.” Huang Zhenlan said.
The store of about 100 square meters is filled with bedding, scarves, shirts, pajamas and handbags sewn from Hong’an Dabu. Hong’an Dabu’s traditional textile skills have a history of more than a thousand years, and Huang Zhenlan’s skills were passed down from her grandmother. “My great-grandfather had no legs and could not do farm work, so he relied on my grandmother to spin and weave cloth to make a living. During the Revolutionary War, the common people used the red and large cloth woven from yarn to make clothes and bedding for the Red Army. Therefore, the Red Army An Dabu has a distinctive red mark and is also called Red Army cloth,” Huang Zhenlan said.
Later, my grandmother passed this skill on to my mother. When Huang Zhenlan was 10 years old, she started spinning and weaving with her mother. By the time she was 16, she had become her mother’s right-hand man. Now she has passed it on to her daughter born in the 1990s. In 2009, Hong’an Dabu was successfully declared an intangible cultural heritage of Hubei Province, and Huang Zhenlan became a representative inheritor. In order to protect and pass on this traditional skill, the Hong’an County Culture and Tourism Bureau provided her with this store for free. In July 2010, Huang Zhenlan appeared at the Shanghai World Expo with Hong’an Dabu traditional textile skills. In 2013, Huang Zhenlan registered the “Huang Zhenlan” trademark. Today, her stores have grown to three, with a total business area of more than 700 square meters, an annual income of nearly 8 million yuan, and 50 permanent employees, helping more than 300 left-behind women in the county find jobs at home.
Huang Zhenlan introduced that Hong’an large cloth is made of pure cotton handcraft. It feels thick, comfortable on the skin, warm in winter and cool in summer, breathable and sweat-wicking, and has no static electricity. The colors are fresh, rhythmic and rhythmic. Give people simple beauty. From a ball of cotton to a piece of cloth, there are as many as 72 main processes, including rolling cotton sliver, spinning, thread stripping, dyeing thread, sizing thread, barrel pouring, drawing warp, carding, threading, buttoning, and loading. Wait, there are 11 core processes, which are very complicated. In recent years, she has actively cooperated with Hong’an County and held many traditional textile skills training courses for Hong’an Dabu, teaching apprentices the skills. Hong’an Dabu has gradually embarked on the road of industrial development, forming cotton planting, spinning, loom There are more than 150 market entities engaged in the production and sales of Hong’an Dabu in the county, including 29 in Changsheng Street alone. , with an annual comprehensive output value of more than 60 million yuan.
Currently, Huang Zhenlan is in contact with Xiangxi, Hunan, to introduce batik technology into Hong’an Dabu to further enrich the color and product lines of Hong’an Dabu. Hong’an County is also actively planning to introduce Shandong’s modern textile industry enterprises and combine them with Hong’an Dabu’s traditional textile techniques to further promote the development of Hong’an Dabu industry.
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