Core tip: Please note that the actual body size is different from the garment size. The garment size of the shirt includes the amount of relaxation, but the actual body size does not include the amount of relaxation.
Male upper body measurement position
Note that the actual body size is different from the clothing size. The garment size of the shirt already includes the amount of relaxation, but the actual body size does not include the amount of relaxation. The following table shows the specifications and sizes of men’s shirts:
Measurement requirements for men’s Hawaiian shirts
Take the medium model (M) as an example. As the paper pattern specifications, it is also the size of the shirt. .
Paper pattern drawing
1. Front piece
1. Copy the original shape of the front piece of men’s upper body, and draw or change the pattern according to the medium size .
2. Lengthen the body of the shirt to the mid-back length.
3. Place the bottom of the clip vertically to the hem of the shirt.
4. Add a 1.5 cm button position to the front center line. Note that the two front button positions must be aligned, and add an additional 7 cm width to the welt.
5. An open bag is 13 cm long, 11.5 cm wide, and the bag opening is folded 3 cm.
6. The hem of the shirt hem is 3 cm.
7. Add 1 cm of fringe around it.
8. Write all the pattern information symbols on each piece of paper pattern.
Front piece pattern▲
Open bag pattern▲
2. Back piece
1. Copy the men’s back piece Original shape, drawing or changing the pattern according to the medium size.
2. The body of the shirt is lengthened from the middle to the middle.
3. Place the bottom of the clip vertically to the hem of the shirt.
4. Add 1 cm of fringe around it.
5. Hem the hem of the shirt by 3 cm.
6. Write the pattern data symbol on each piece of paper pattern.
Back piece pattern▲
3. Collar
Make the bottom collar first, and then the top collar, because the top collar is wider than the bottom collar. After completing the bottom collar, it can be enlarged to become a face collar.
1. 1 to 3: front collar circumference and back collar circumference.
2. 0 to 1: The collar width is 3.5 cm.
3. Use a ruler to connect 0 to 2, which is the length of the collar side.
4. The distance between 2 and 3 is 3 cm, which is the same as 0 to 1.
5. Use a bent ruler to connect 1 to 3 and 0 to 2.
6, 4 and 5 are the shoulder points, and 4 to 5 are the back collar circumference.
7. Add a 1cm cutout around the collar and add pattern information on the bottom collar, as shown in Figure 7.6a.
8. First copy the full shape of the bottom collar (without adding tuck).
9. Gradually add 0.2 cm (2 mm) to 1 and 3. Outside the bottom collar, it becomes 6 and 7, which is the connection line of 416735 in the shape of the face collar. As shown in Figure 7.6b.
10. Add a 1 cm fringe around the face collar and add paper pattern information.
Collar pattern▲
4. Sleeves
First copy the basic prototype of the sleeve.
1. Measure 24 cm from the sleeve mountain downward. This is the sleeve length, and the cuff width is 39 cm.
2. The sleeve length is the sum of the front and back circles of the shirt body. If the clamping circle is 50 cm, the length of the sleeve mountain is 50 cm, the center of the sleeve mountain is the shoulder point, and the left and right sides are 25 cm long (50 cm/2 = 25 cm).
3. The cuff width is 39 cm, the cuff fold is 3 cm, and the other hem is 1 cm, a total of 4 cm.
4. Add 1 cm to the width of the sleeves and tuck, and write the paper pattern information.
Sleeve Pattern▲
Typesetting
When typesetting men’s Hawaiian shirts, please pay attention to the following matters:
1. Pay attention to the grain direction, quantity, left and right patterns of the cutting pieces, and arrange them at the bottom of the fabric piece.
2. Pay attention to the sealing degree of the cloth. The commonly used sealing length for shirts is 91 cm (36 inches) or 114 cm (45 inches).
3. There are many ways of typesetting. The principle is to use the least amount of fabric to arrange the most pieces.
4. For the typesetting of this style, if a 91 cm sealing cloth is used, the cloth length needs to be 150 cm; if a 114 cm sealing cloth is used, the cloth length also needs to be 150 cm, but there will be more left on the side. ,.
5. Use drawing powder to draw the outer line of the paper pattern on the bottom of the cloth, and then cut it.
6. Prepare one piece of plain lining on the left and right sides of the front panel and one piece of plain lining on the collar.
